The Ultimate Room Refresh Guide: How to Transform Your Space Without Renovating

SOURCE: Pamela Lynn Interiors

Do you remember the time when decorating projects were the norm and renovations were far less common than they are today? The power of decorating is often overlooked and we seem to have lost the art of it. I don’t believe that every home needs a renovation to look its best. In fact, many of you live in homes that are perfect and just need some TLC. 

If you’re feeling overwhelmed by your space this is for you. I’ve outlined all the ways that your home can be transformed without walls coming down or floors being removed. This will be your immersive guide into turning your home from a 6/10 to a 10/10.

How to Transform Your Space Without Renovating

One of the biggest mistakes I see happening is that the decorating efforts are split between too many areas. When we do this we water down our efforts and those small changes throughout aren’t enough to make an impact. With a limited budget we can only do so much so let’s focus on the areas that will bring the biggest transformation. 

There are a few categories that do the heavy lifting when doing a room refresh in your home. They will help you to focus on the parts of your space where you’ll see the biggest difference. We want to spend our energy and money on things that will give us the biggest bang and the best result. Knowing which categories to focus on means no more squandering your energy on areas that don’t give you enough of a payoff.

1/ Furniture Placement

SOURCE: Pamela Lynn Interiors

Imagine you’re getting dressed for a big event. You’ve selected your outfit and accessories and you’re happy with everything. You start putting on the pieces and realize something’s just not right and so you scrap the entire outfit and go shopping for something new.

That’s what many of you are doing with your furniture and accessories but the problem you perceive may be less significant than you imagined. It’s possible that you have all the right pieces but in the wrong places.

Furniture placement is something designers and decorators focus on first and foremost and  you should too. Before we ever decide on the fabric for the sofa or the colour of the rug we need to know how to make this space function its best. Here are the things you should focus on before deciding on the placement of your own furniture.

What Is the Function of The Space? This is truly the most important question to ask yourself. What will you be doing in this space? What does the space require in order to fulfill that function? Only once those questions have been answered can you identify the ideal layout for your furniture. 

Have I Considered Space for Walkways? When a layout is incorrect there will often be a shortage of space to walk around the furniture. I very often see insufficient space between the sofa and coffee table as well as inaccessible routes in and out of the seating area. Being forced to squeeze in and out of a conversation area can make you feel like the furniture is wrong when it may just be a layout issue. 

What Is the View When Entering the Room? A sofa or sectional improperly placed can create a visual wall when you enter a room. This looks uninviting but it also messes with the traffic flow of a room. We want to avoid walking around big bulky pieces and instead create a visual feeling of lightness that feels open and inviting.

The image above illustrates the issues that can occur with furniture placement. In the incorrect layout we are walking into the room and are greeted by the back of the sofa. This is unwelcoming but it also creates a visual and physical obstruction. 

In the correct layout we have breathing space when we enter the room to decide where to go next. The sofa and the chairs are easily accessible and we don’t feel trapped by the room’s furniture. This layout can also be seen as blocking some of the natural light flowing into the space. When possible, arrange the furniture so that we’re able to take in all the views to the outside. 

2/ Rug Size

SOURCE: Rugs USA

If you’ve been a design lover for some time you likely already know this is such a common culprit when it comes to poor room design. Why are you all buying such small rugs???? If your living room rug is 5’x7’ you have selected the wrong size. Pam, how can you say that when you haven’t seen the room? I can tell you without doubt it’s too small. That size rug is never meant for a living space.

There are several factors that contribute to the sizing but here are things to consider when selecting a rug size:

• What size is your room?
• What size is your furniture?
• How many furniture groupings are you including in your room?
• Do you want the furniture sitting entirely on the rug?

Generally, shoppers are selecting rugs that are too small for the space. I understand when the budget is tight that this is the first place to consider saving a few dollars but I’d rather you buy in increments and get the correct size. 

You can see from the image below just how much a room’s aesthetics change with different size rugs. The 5 x 7 rug looks far too small and even makes the room look unfinished. The 6 x 8 is still too small and only with the 8 x 10 can we see the right size emerge. Equally, the 10 x 12 looks great and in the end either of those sizes work. One of the rules I abide by when shopping for rugs is when in doubt, go bigger!

Helpful Tips for Selecting Rug Size

• Living Room – the front legs of large furniture pieces must be on the rug.
• Dining Room – your rug should be 24” wider than the table on all sides to ensure your chair will slide in and out easily.
• Bedroom – Leave a 24”-36” border of rug around the bed as a minimum.

Pro Tips for Rug Placement

• Check door clearances to ensure your door height will glide over the rug and not create an obstacle. 
• Use painter’s tape on the floor to map out the best size for your space.
• Leave 12”-18” of visible floor space between the edge of the rug and the wall.

Material Options When Buying Rugs

Once the correct rug size has been established it’s time to shop. It’s important to understand the various materials available to you. I always recommend natural fibres when possible. They’re easier to clean, last longer and feel better underfoot but if your budget doesn’t allow natural fibres instead look for high quality synthetic fibres. Here are the most common materials used in rug manufacturing:

• Wool – stain resistant, warm and cozy underfoot and long-lasting.
• Jute or Sisal – extremely durable, adds texture to a space but can be rough underfoot.
• Silk – luxurious feel with a gorgeous sheen but not recommended for high traffic areas.
• Cotton – lightweight and perfect if you need to machine wash. I like these for entry ways and cottages.
• Synthetic – affordable. These are great for budget friendly designs or high traffic areas.

3/ Lighting

SOURCE: Pamela Lynn Interiors

I’m not sure why lighting tends to be so overlooked as a design tool. If you’re not aware of how great lighting can enhance your space you’re missing out. If you have moved into a home without considering the lighting and your space feels dull, this is very likely the culprit.

There are three types of lighting that are recommended for every room. The combination of all three will bring nuance to the space, highlight important pieces and illuminate dark corners where shadows collect. 

1/ Ambient Lighting

This is also referred to as general lighting and it’s the one source of light that most of us have enough of in our homes. This is often our recessed lighting but also includes natural lighting. This type of light spreads a glow across the room. As opposed to being for a specific task, this type of lighting is meant to illuminate the entirety of the room.

If you’re in an older home without recessed lighting you may be relying on a single overhead fixture which likely isn’t sufficiently lighting your space. This should be your first area to consider an upgrade. A high wattage light fixture can add additional light as well as replacing your current fixture with an oversized fixture that spreads light more evenly across the room. 

2/ Task Lighting

Now it’s time to introduce task lighting. It’s exactly what it sounds like – it’s intended to create light for specific tasks. This could be reading lamps beside your favourite chair, under cabinet lighting in the kitchen or a good desk lamp for those late nights in the office.

The key to great task lighting is adjustability. Make sure you can switch between at least 2 settings so that the light is right for the time of day.

3/ Accent Lighting

This type of lighting is intended to highlight areas of interest. This could be down lights above a piece of art or even above the fireplace. The effect is to draw your eye to something beautiful in the space. 

While you’re creating these pockets of warm light you’re also creating a high end look. Even the most simple artwork looks more luxurious with lighting above it.

Another great source of accent lighting are wall sconces that shine light either up or down. This isn’t highlighting anything but it’s creating warmth.

Guidelines for Lighting by Room

Here are some rules of thumb that will help you when it’s time to add new lighting. Like any rule, you don’t have to worry about adhering to it entirely but instead, use it as a guide.

Living Room

Table Lamps – minimum 28” height.

Table Lamp & Table – the combined height of table and lamp should not exceed 64”.

Floor Lamps – between 58” and 64” from floor to top of shade.

Accent Lamps – between 12” and 18” height.

Dining Room

Chandelier Diameter – measure your dining table’s width and subtract 12. That’s the ideal diameter of a ceiling fixture or chandelier.

Chandelier Distance from Table – bottom of the chandelier should be 30”-35” above table.

Wall Sconce (8’ ceiling) – centre of sconce should be 60”-66” above floor.

Wall Sconce (9’ ceiling) – centre of sconce should be 66”-72” above floor.

Kitchen

Pendant Above Island – bottom of pendant should be 30”-32” above countertop.

Distance Between Pendants – between 30” and 36” between outside edge of pendants.

Under Cabinet Lighting (puck lights) – centre between front and back of cabinet.

Under Cabinet Lighting (strip lights) – 2”-4” from front of cabinet.

Bedroom

Ceiling Fixture – option 1 – centre over bed.

Ceiling Fixture – option 2 – centre in room.

Wall Sconces – place centre of sconce 60” above floor.

Lamps – total height between 24”-27” height.

Bulbs Matter

Incandescent vs LED

Once upon a time we all lit our homes using incandescent bulbs. Times have changed and in Canada this type of light bulb was banned as an import in 2014 due to the risk of fire. Since then we’ve all learned to embrace LED bulbs. The benefit of LEDs is that they last much longer and are more energy efficient.

Watts vs Lumens

With incandescent lighting we selected our bulbs based on watts which measures the amount of energy to light a fixture or lamp. With LED lighting we select bulbs based on lumens. Lumens measure how much light you’re receiving from a bulb. 

Colour Temperature

You may have heard the term kelvin when referring to the temperature of a bulb. Aside from the lumens which control the brightness, it’s also important to consider whether you prefer a warm or cool light in your space.

The kelvin scale helps us understand the colour of our bulbs. The warmer the light emitted, the lower the kelvin number will be. For instance, candlelight registers at around 2200K. If you prefer warm lighting you’ll be looking for 2700k-3000k while pure white light is around 4000k. Keep these numbers below for the next time you’re shopping for light bulbs.

Less than 2000k – this is a very dim light which is similar to candlelight. This is best utilized as ambient light in low light areas.

2000k-3000k – this will emit a soft white glow that can cast a yellow light. This is ideal for living and dining rooms as well as bedrooms.

3100k-4500k – this emits a bright white light. This can feel stark and is best utilized in kitchens and work areas or not at all 🙂

4600k-6500k – this looks like a very blue-white light and can most closely mimic daylight. This is best for spaces where very bright light is needed, ie office spaces and display areas.

6500k and above – primarily used in commercial settings, this gives off a bright blue light and would not be considered suitable for residential settings. 

4/ Textiles

SOURCE: Pamela Lynn Interiors

The fabrics and textiles in your space are doing more than just looking good. They can act as a transformative tool that will set the tone for the space. They are so good at helping you introduce colour and pattern and give life to the space. They can help shape your room in several ways:

Create the Room’s Ambiance – If you don’t believe that textiles make a significant impact in your home just try switching your linen curtains for heavy velvet ones. Suddenly your light and breezy room will feel darker and more serious.

Control the Room’s Acoustics – the first day you move into a new home you understand how much echo there is in an empty space. Textiles like fabric and rugs absorb sound and reduce the echo in a room, making it significantly more comfortable. 

Add Visual Interest – No room is complete without a variety of textiles to add visual interest. Often this is the only colour and pattern in a space and without that addition, the room would feel very flat and lifeless. 

Provides Design Flexibility – If you’re easily bored in your home you likely love the seasonal change of textiles in your room. From throw blankets to pillows to curtains it’s possible to transform your space just through these seasonal changes. Nothing else in our space can offer as much flexibility so have fun with it.

Coordinating Patterns to Work Cohesively

If you’re not comfortable pairing patterns in your wardrobe you may also feel the same way when it comes to your home. This can be intimidating which is why most of us end up with plain fabric with no pattern and very little colour. This can leave the space feeling flat and listless. 

If you’re interested in learning how to combine fabrics you first need to know that there are more than one correct ways to do it but here are my best tips:

A Single Colour in Various Patterns 

This one works really well for those who prefer pattern over colour. This relies primarily on the mixing of pattern but the colour palette remains very consistent. You can have various shades of the same colour but you’re entirely relying on a single colour to be the common thread between all the various patterns.

So how many patterns are too many? I would say you can successfully mix 3 or even 4 different patterns and they’ll look great together if they all have the same background colour. You may sneak a little bit of a secondary colour like white or cream but you’ll be relying on the main colour for consistency.

Focus on Pattern Size

If you want to really have fun with multiple patterns as well as a few colours this is the secret to success. This type of pattern mixing is often the most difficult to achieve because you have to have a good eye and a lot of confidence to successfully pull off a number of colours and patterns together. The pay off is massive when it’s done well though so if you like it, go for it. 

Pay careful attention to the scale of each pattern. That will be the key to getting it right. A simple rule to live by is to incorporate a small, medium and large scale pattern. This will allow each to have some attention but also not fight each other.

One of the most common mistakes I see when mixing patterns is that the scale remains consistent. This is what causes the busy look where our eyes don’t know where to land. Be conscious of the scale and it’ll be perfect.

Weave Pattern Throughout the Space

Not all your patterns have to live together side by side. For instance, you can use a bold pattern alongside a neutral fabric on a chair. Meanwhile, across from that chair you can use a different pattern from the chair alongside a 2nd and maybe 3rd additional fabric. Those additional fabrics can be patterned or plain. 

There needs to be something tying them together but it can be a colour or a secondary part of the pattern. You don’t have to repeat the entire pattern across your room. Maybe you have large oversized flowers with leaves on one pillow. Across from that you could include a small scale leaf pattern and they would work wonderfully together.

Invert the Colours

If you want to use 2 or more patterns together but you don’t want it to feel overwhelming you can just simply commit to 2 or 3 colours. The patterns need space to breathe and adding in too many colours will end up with visual chaos. The best advice for using multiple patterns is to pick 2 or 3 colours and play around with inverting the colour. 

If you like a bolder pattern, try something more attention grabbing like a polka dot pillow. It can sit beside a strong geometric pattern just by inverting the colour. Adding in a new colour would make it challenging to have these side by side but with just 2 colours they look great together.

5/ Window Treatments

SOURCE: Pamela Lynn Interiors

If there’s one way to elevate a room my vote would be for window coverings. A beautiful drapery panel can add elegance and a luxe feeling to any space. I always prefer custom drapery but if you can’t afford that there are lots of great off-the-shelf options available as well. When considering new window treatments you’ll want to focus on the following:

Function

What is the function of the drapery you’re installing? Is it meant to be operational and you’ll close the curtains each evening? Alternatively, many of us just need the curtain panel to add softness and they’ll never need to be closed.

Before you shop you’ll need to have a full understanding of what you expect in terms of the drapery’s performance. Once that’s been decided you’ll be able to determine how wide your curtains should be. Operational curtains that open and close require a lot more fabric than panels that are stationary.

Size

Now that you know whether your curtains are operational or stationary you’ll be able to determine how wide the curtains should be on each side. 

For functional curtains that open and close you’ll want each side panel to be 1 to 1.5 times the width of the window (including any trim). For example, a 50” window will require each side panel to be 50”-75” in width. The wider the panel the fuller the overall effect will be.

For stationary curtains that don’t open and close you’ll want the panel width to be approximately ½ the width of the window. A 50” window will require a 25” panel on each side. 

Lining

Do you require light control or privacy protection in your space? If so, you’ll want your curtains to be lined. Lining is designed to block light, reduce noise and sometimes even provide added insulation. 

Look for blackout or thermal lining when your curtains are functional. This will give you the best light and sound protection. 

Decorative panels don’t require lining unless you want to give them some additional fullness. In that case, look for a lightweight lining or just add additional width to increase the fullness of the panel. 

Header Styles

SOURCE: Ease Ease Curtains

There are 3 general header styles – grommet, pleated and ripple. The style you select will dictate the overall tone and feel of your curtains. While some are considered modern and some more formal, they can be used interchangeably 

For custom drapery, a pleated header is most common and will give you a timeless, long-lasting look. That’s not to say you can’t use this style with a modern space. You absolutely can! This style requires rings that hang on a rod and track system and typically is a job left to professionals.

Grommet style is the most casual of all the header styles. This is often used when purchasing off-the-shelf curtains and gives a contemporary look. No clips or rings are required with a grommet header as they hang on just a curtain rod. 

Ripple fold is designed to look the same regardless of whether the curtain is open or closed. The ripple should stay intact at all times as it’s attached using a track and runner system. While this style isn’t as common as pleated styles it can give an interesting look to an overall quiet room. Installing this style of curtain is a job best left for industry professionals.

Both rod pocket and back tab are readily available at big box stores and are typically not used in custom drapery. Both of these styles add character to casual spaces and require just a curtain rod for installation. 

6/ Artwork

SOURCE: Pamela Lynn Interiors

This is such a tricky category for so many homeowners. I hear often that you struggle to find artwork and when you do find it, you struggle to hang it. Even when we’re not aware of it, artwork has a strong, emotional connection to space and we can fall in love with a room without even realizing it’s the artwork drawing us in. 

The Style

Always consider the style of your home before investing in artwork. You want to ensure that you’re selecting pieces that complement your style instead of working against it. 

Here are some simple guidelines for picking art to match your style. And as always, rules are made to be broken so if you feel confident, just go with your heart. At the end of the day if you buy what you love, it’s always a good choice.

• Black and white photography for Contemporary
• Florals, birds, landscapes for Traditional
• Abstract for Mid-Century
• Bold oil paintings for Hollywood Regency

Space Between Artwork

One of the most common mistakes I see in artwork displays is too much space between multiple pieces of art. Whether it’s just 2 pieces or an entire gallery wall, spacing matters a lot. Negative space isn’t just a bit of empty wall space, it’s where your eye will be drawn when it’s excessive or more than 5″.

Try using 3″-5″ between pieces of art for the optimal spacing. When there are more than 2 pieces, stay consistent in that measurement. For instance, if you are using 4” between pieces then be sure to use that for all the pieces.

Space Between Artwork and Furniture

This is one of the trickier points because there’s a little bit of oppositional advice. Often, you’ve been told to place the centre of artwork at the eye level of an average adult. When there’s furniture like a sofa or a buffet that advice needs to be overwritten by the following:

Connect your artwork visibly to your furniture using 6″-10″ as the standard height above the furniture piece to hang your artwork.  More than 10″ will make the artwork float by itself.

If you’d like to learn more about the rules of hanging art, read this post or if you are unsure about what type of art is best for your home, read this post.  

I hope this guide serves as a constant reminder that we don’t always need to renovate in order to build a beautiful home. If you require any help with your upcoming decorating project, reach out to me. I’d love to hear about your home and let you know how we can help.